Chanel - Cuir de Russie

Part of 'Les Exclusifs', Cuir de Russie is only available from Selfridges (UK) and the Chanel boutiques - I can't comment on US availability. I was given a sample by my friend Gisèle Scanlon (author of both The Goddess Guide and The Goddess Experience) around late November, and so it proved the perfect accompaniment for Winter nights. Created in 1927 by the Legendary Ernest Beaux Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather) is one of those delightful fragrances that to the untrained nose is referred to as 'granny like', but to perfume connoisseurs is known as 'classic'. Instantly recognisable as a Chanel fragrance, Cuir de Russie is both powdery and smoky, underlined with the trademark florals and aldehydes. But that brief summary doesn't do justice to it's intricate composition; it's elegant presence. The Chanel website provided a beautiful description which I believe needs no further annotation: "Constructed on a base of Albanian Birchwood, its pure heart of Jasmine, Oriental Rose and Ylang-Ylang peaks in a mélange of mingling notes - Tunisian Orange Blossom, Calabrian Bergamot and Sicilian Mandarin." There is also word of notes of blonde tobacco and frankincense, providing a dark and musky twist. It was supposedly inspired by Coco Chanel's love of all things Russian (as shown in quite a few of her collections) after meeting Grand Duke Dimitri, cousin of Tsar Nicholas II. Perhaps what is most noticeable to me however is the heavy smokey note (presumably provided by the said blonde tobacco consistent throughout - not an unpleasant one, quite the contrary. The only let down, should I have to try and find one, is that the leather here is not quite as obvious as say Tom Ford's 'Tuscan Leather'. But don't let that detract from what is a truly captivating fragrance. It is more suited to the colder months of the year, working best in glamorous locations and parties, when one wishes to make an entrance.The first time I wore it was to a show at the theatre, and I'll never forget the experience of Baroque opulence, red velvet, warm lighting and Cuir de Russie. Magnifique!